Learning how to ride rocky terrain correctly is an essential technique that enables you to refine your technical riding skills, as well as prevent damage to your bike, as well as minimize the possibility of injury.

Rocks come in all shapes and sizes, but the fact remain that – if rocky terrain is ridden incorrectly – they can inflict damage to your bike and your body. Here are a few tips to enable you to refine your rocky terrain riding.

1. Increase your tire pressure: The advantages of running lower tire pressures off-road outweigh the disadvantages in most situations, but riding trails with a lot of sharp and/or big rocks can call for higher tire pressures (at least 35 PSI, but I don’t recommend you go over 40 PSI). Firmer tires will minimize the possibility of pinch-flatting and cuts to your tires’ sidewalls. When buying tires, choose ones with thicker sidewalls and more aggressive knobs, which work best on our dry and rough trails in Egypt.

2. Gear choice and pedalling technique: On long stretches of rocky terrain, pick a gear that will enable you to maintain a constant, smooth pedaling over the rocky sections. Pick too tall a gear and you’ll risk stalling. Try to stay in the saddle and focus on a smooth pedal stroke and let your suspension do what it is designed to do.

3. Choose a good line and commit to it: This last point seems to be common to advice in riding most situations. Keep your head up, scout out the trail as far ahead as possible and plan your entry and exit on various sections. If, for instance, you’re riding fast and flowy singletrack littered with rocky sections, pick up adequate speed, loosen up your elbows and knees and concentrate on “floating” your bike over the rocks by shifting your body weight and loading/unloading your suspension. With enough speed and good technique, you’ll be surprised at how you can quite easily ride through some very rough sections.

Do you constantly find yourself  having to get off your bike and push it uphill while watching the rest of your friends easily cycle to the top? If that is the case, then this article is for you. This article is also for you if you want to learn a few techniques to get you higher up that hill with less effort.

Contrary to the popular belief that it’s all about how powerful your legs are, in reality it’s 90% technique and 10% muscle. The name of the game is how to balance your weight on the bike far enough to the back so that the rear tire doesn’t slip and at the same time forward enough to prevent the front tire from doing a wheelie. That’s it.

Balance and Riding Position

The trick, then, is to get your weight back and keep your weight on the front wheel. To do this:

• Lower you chin as close as possible to the handle bar while looking forward, not down.
• Keep your elbows close to your side and flexible.
• Don’t pull on the handle bar. This achieves nothing.

This will lower your center of gravity and distribute your weight evenly between front and back. How far to lean forward is determined by the slope of the climb and the traction of the terrain that you are riding on. Another very important technique I learned is to:

• Shift your seating position (i.e your buttocks) to the very forward tip of your seat, almost as if you’re about to stand up. (I know that this hurts, but this is probably the most important tip in this article).

With practice, all of these will come together and your body will naturally fall into the right position.

It is important to remember that there is no such thing as a perfectly straight climb in mountain biking. You will have to keep on ADJUSTING your balance and riding position every few seconds to react to the climb.

Other things that will help:

• Don’t lower your seat. You only do that for downhill. Don’t have it too high either. Keep it in a position that allows you to pedal comfortably (maximum utilization of your muscles)
• If you have an adjustable fork, then drop your fork at the lowest travel. This will allows you to put enough weight on the front to keep it from lifting up on very steep climb and keep it going where you want it to go.
• If your have a full-suspension bike, switch on pedal platform or lock-out your rear suspension if your shock has that functionality. The bobbing motion from pedaling can result in significant energy loss (although many modern well-designed suspension designs and technologies mitigate this effect rather efficiently)

Pedaling and Shifting

• If you are starting a climb from a stationary position, then it is natural to start on the lowest gear possible.
• If you are approaching the climb with speed, then there are two techniques you can try:
  • Beginner: While coasting, shift to the lowest gear possible and then STOP pedaling. Let the bike go uphill on its own until you approach the point of zero velocity (otherwise you would probably spin out on the low gear). 2-3 seconds before that, you should start pedaling.
  • Advanced: As your pedaling and shifting techniques improve, you should work on attacking a climb in a way that preserves as much of your forward momentum as possible. While coasting, try to be on a gear that will allow you to comfortably do 1 rotation per second, then start your climb. Then start shifting down one by one until you reach the lowest gear possible. Never shift too many gears at once, or else you’ll hear lots of snapping and popping and could easily snap your chain.

Pick a Good Line to Climb

Scan the climb first and try to get a feel of the terrain and obstacles. Gauge how much traction you will have. Choose a line that has the following:

• Less obstacles, such as rocks. Trying to steer around obstacles just increases its complexity
• Avoid soft sand and loose gravel or anything that will make your tires slip, if at all possible.

Manage Your Energy

Try to manage your energy so that you have enough juice to make it to the top. Here are some tips:

• Pedal at a constant speed (rotations per second). Don’t pedal too fast during the first part of the climb or you’ll run out of breath before you reach the top
• Breathe!!
• Take a break before a steep climb and wait until your heart rate falls to a normal rhythm. I find myself having to do that more and more the older I get

Here is a quick guide that I put together that will help you boost your confidence on the trail and result in improving your riding skills. In my point of view, confidence is one of the most important factors getting better at Mountain Biking. Improved confidence will allow you to try out more challenging and more technical climbs and drops, also resulting in a more enjoyable ride ..

Here they are, not in any particular order:

1. Practice / Repetition: Knowing the trail is very important. When you keep on repeating the same trail over and over again your body will automatically adapt to all the corners, drops and climbs. You will easily anticipate where each technical section is and you will know when to slow down, when to speed up, when to shift in advance and when to drop or raise your seat post.
2. Protective Gear: Wearing proper protective gear gives you a strong feeling of confidence. A helmet is an absolute must. Knee and shin guards are optional, however I think that given the harsh terrain of Wadi Degla, they are absolutely necessary. Elbow pads are also important, but not as important as the knee pads.
3. Using the right bike / equipment: Not all bikes are created equal. Some are better than others in handling certain types of riding. In Wadi Degla, you can breeze through 95% of all the sections using a hard tail, however there are certain sections that will be a lot easier with a full suspension bike. If you have a fork with long travel (130mm – 160mm), it will give you a boost of confidence on drops. Make sure your tires are in good condition. Also make sure that you have the right tire for the terrain you are riding. See this post for more info: http://mtbegypt.com/guides/the-best-tires-for-riding-on-egyptian-trails/
4. Clipless Pedals: These are a double edged sword. Once you get used to them, they improve confidence and actually make your ride a lot more energy efficient. The problem is that they take a while to get used to, and during that period you actually ride with less confidence because you’re always too afraid that you won’t be able to release from your pedals in time. Personally, I use the Clip/Clipless pedals that gives you a 2-in-1. I found that to be the best option.
5. Good Brakes: Knowing that bike has good brakes is a reassurance that you can push your riding to the limits of your skills and know that you have adequate stopping power on tap. Disc brakes are better than V-brakes and a worthwhile upgrade if you have a basic bike. Whatever type of brakes you have, always make sure that your braking system is well maintained.
6. Ride in Groups: Group dynamics help boost confidence through competitiveness and encouragement. Try to join a group where there is an advanced rider among the group that coaches the rest.

Dear Fellow enthusiasts,

We  will be organizing a group ride for beginners on Friday, June 10th at 7am at Wadi Degla.

Ride Type:  Mountain bike

Pace: Slow to medium

Where:  Wadi Degla Protectorate

Who: Beginners ages 16 and up are welcome, even if you are a first timer.

Description:

Here is your chance to try mountain biking!  Beginners ages 16 and up are welcome.

We will be rolling at 7:00am, so plan on arriving at around 6:45.  We will be riding on the short corporate loop (13.5km).  The terrain will be mostly flat, with a few uphills and downhills in the beginning and the end.  The pace will be slow to medium, and we will not leave anyone behind.

Neal and Hani, the ride leaders, will be going over some basic mountain biking skills during the ride.

You must wear a helmet on this ride, and you must have a mountain bike. Water is also certainly a must.

What to bring with you:

• A mountain bike in good condition
• Mountain biking Helmet
• At least 2 liters of water and/or other energy drinks and snacks
• Spare inner tube and tools to install it
• Cycling shorts
• Glasses with clear or light colored lenses
• Gloves

If you need help in organizing transportation from Heliopolis or New Cairo, please contact the ride leaders and they will try to assist you.

To Register or for any questions, please contact Neal or Hani, the ride leaders at nafifi@gmail.com and hani.morsi@gmail.com

Picture source

One of the most common beginner rider questions is: aside from my bike, what should I take along for a trail ride?

The answer to this question may vary depending on where you ride, experience, terrain and weather, but here is a “universal” packing list that includes most things that you should have when riding off-road.

Note that some items have higher importance than others, but in general having most items on this list ensures that you will be well-prepared for your ride in most conditions. Note that this list is intended as a general guide, and that you may need to carry additional items depending on your actual riding conditions or needs.

1) Must-have items (Do not go riding off-road without these items):

• A decent helmet (MTB-specific helmets often have a visor for some added sun protection)
• Something to carry water in: You can carry standard water bottle on frame-mounted cages, you can pack a couple of water bottles in your backpack or a runner’s waistpack, or – most convenient of all- you can carry a hydration pack.
• A spare tube, tire levers, and a mini pump (you don’t to walk 5-30 KMs back to the trail head, do you?)

2) Recommended items (these items will make you a lot better prepared and equipped for MTBing, especially for longer and more technical rides):

(A) Clothing:

• Padded bike shorts
• Cycling shoes (type depends on whether you use clipless or flat pedals)
• Cycling jersey: There are several cuts and styles, but quality cycling jerseys are made of a fast-drying moisture-wicking material and often has pockets on the back for storing small items like energy bars, mobile phones, etc.
• Riding gloves: Short finger gloves are better in the summer or if you use electronic devices during the ride (a camera, GPS or phone). Long-finger gloves offer more protection for the knuckles and fingers, especially in the event of a crash.
• Sunglasses: You don’t want to keep squinting against the wind and direct sunlight  for the duration of the ride. Many manufacturers offer interchangeable or Photocromatic lenses for maximum versatility, like the Tifosi Dolimite we recently reviewed.
• A bandanna or headband: keeps sweat out of your eyes and makes it more comfortable to wear a helmet on long rides.
• Protective clothing: Knee/shin guards and elbow guards. Some form of leg protection will protect your knees and shins from cuts and abrasions from falls and pedal strikes when your legs slip.
• Extra layer/wind jacket: If the weather is chilly/windy (we’re blessed with sunny weather most of the year in Egypt so you might not be needing this except for a few weeks)

(B) Tools and spares (we already listed spare tubes and pump):

• A good multi-tool.
• A chain-breaker (if your multi-tool doesn’t have one)
• Zipties (useful for many things)
• A small patch-kit (puncture more than one tube? Have extra back-up!)
• A spare derailleur hanger (if you don’t have one and break a derailleur, you can use the chain breaker to shorten your chain and ride home in single speed until you can get a new hanger)
• Spare chain links, like the SRAM PowerLink.
• If you ride tubeless tires, then a CO2 inflator and a spare cartridge.

(C) Other items:

• A compact first aid kit (very important!)
• Cell phone (You might not have coverage in all areas, but nice to have just in case)
• GPS (not essential, but useful to view trail maps and navigation)
• Paper towels/wipes
• A shock pump (if your bike has front/rear air suspension)

A question I get asked a lot by people just getting into mountain biking is: What are the best upgrades I can make to my bike?

Simple enough question, but the answer would vary depending on rider experience, riding location and style, the type of bike you want to upgrade, among others. Thus, for the purpose of this article, I am going to assume the following:

• You are new (or relatively new) to mountain biking. You ride your bike on a regular basis and have ventured on the trails (i.e. Wadi Degla) at least a few times to have a general idea of what upgrades you would like to make.
• You have an entry level to- mid-range mountain bike, which is the type currently most prevalent in Egypt.
• You have a limited upgrade budget and would like to prioritize.
• Since this article is relevant to riding to Egypt I will also assume that you do most of your trail riding in Wadi Degla.
• You already have a decent frame: If you have a frame that is too heavy, too old, or otherwise in need of major repairs it is usually not worth it to go about starting with component upgrades. A good frame makes for a good platform for future upgrades and vice versa. To make the best out of your component upgrades, you should have a good frame to start with.

That said, you should keep in mind that this article focuses on upgrades that would make recreational mountain biking riding on a budget more enjoyable and components that strike a good balance between price and durability. We will leave talking about higher-end components aside for now for another article.

Step # 1:  Know your bike

A typical mountain bike usually has 28-30+ individual components that can be grouped as follows:

1- The frame (the main chassis of your bike on which everything goes)

2- The Wheelset (wheels are made of rims, hubs, spokes, tires and tubes)

3- The drivetrain (front & rear derailleurs, chain, crankset, bottom bracket, pedals)

4- The brakes (brake levers, rotors, calipers, pads, cables/hoses)

5- The steering/cockpit group: (The handlebar, stem, grips, seat post, and saddle)

Step # 2: Prioritize:

If you are not able/can’t afford to get all the upgrades you need in one go, then you must prioritize. Start with the components that can make the most noticeable differences in the way your bike handles. Things like quality brakes, a good wheelset and a nice suspension fork will make for a much better mountain bike. If your drivetrain components are working fine, they should get lower upgrade priority until you start progressing into more frequent/aggressive riding or until they break. Cockpit and steering components should have the lowest priority since – for the average recreational rider – they do not make that much of a noticeable difference unless they are necessary for bike fit (such as stem length/ride and seat post setback).

Step # 3: Choose between durability and weight-savings:

Let me remind you that this article assumes you have a relatively limited budget for upgrades. If cost is a non-issue, then you shouldn’t be reading this.

As a general rule, you could only choose TWO of the following three component characteristics: Durable, light, cheap.

This means that if you get something that is both durable and cheap, chances are it will not be light. By the same token, if you decide to buy something that is both light and durable, you will be most probably paying a lot more on this specific component than others that would serve the same purpose but a little heavier. You can opt to get something which is light and cheap, but it probably won’t last very long. Trade-offs, trade-offs

Taking wheels as an example: Entry-level wheels bult on Shimano Deore hubs will not cost much, are pretty durable with moderate use and, but weigh in at around 2400+ grams for the wheelset (depending on rims and spokes). By comparison, mid-range wheelsets by Shimano, DT Swiss, Mavic and other well-known manufacturers will cost significantly more, but will be up to 600 grams lighter, have better hubs and are generally more durable. High-end wheels from the same manufacturers save yet more weight but retain the quality and durability, and look nicer, too! They also cost about 4 -5 times as much as entry level wheelsets. However, light-weight AND cheap wheels from lesser-known manufacturers suffer from quality and durability issues, but use the lighter weight as a selling point to compete with the bigger brands.

For beginner recreational riders, my advise would be to start with things that are both durable AND cheap. You want components that will both make a noticeable difference in the ride quality of your bike and that will last you for a good while before you decide to move up to higher-end items.

Step # 4: Check the interoperability of new/existing components:

Say you want to upgrade your suspension fork. You find a good deal on one and buy it. You’re getting ready to replace your old fork when you discover than your new fork does jot have v-brake bosses. You were not planning on upgrading to disc brakes now, especially since your wheels do not have disc hubs. Now you have to decide whether you want to return your new fork (if you can) and look for another one with v-brake mounts, or install it but do a whole bunch of expensive upgrades in order to use it (new hubs or wheels + a full disc brake set).

Step # 5: Don’t forget the accessories:

You might get too caught up in upgrading your bike and forget about other very important riding gear that will make a lot of difference in your ride quality and comfort. Make some room in your budget for a good hydration pack, quality gloves and shoes and some comfy riding shorts.

Some recommendations:

• Make sure that your components are properly installed and adjusted before deciding to upgrade. Many beginners make the mistake of assuming that some components are bad just becuase they’re not working properly. Drivetrain and suspension components need to be regularly and properly serviced and adjusted. Have some one with more experience check on things for you before you place an order for all-new equipment.

• Initially go for the mid-range, not the low-end: You probably already know that mountain biking is rough on frames and
  

  The 2010 Shimano Deore mountain bike component group

  components. Better components will last longer and generally require less maintenance. When buying on upgrading on a budget, try to get the components that fall in the mid-range of what manufacturers offer. For example, the Shimano Deore and SRAM x.5 and X.7 drivetrain groups are generally the most reasonable options for beginner mountain bikers who intend to get more into the sport. Components below this level will still work, but are lighter duty and not geared towards frequent/serious off-road riding. Higher-end components (e.g. Shimano Deore XT & XTR and SRAM X.9 and X.O) provide things like smoother shifting, lighter weight and better durability that you will only benefit from as your own riding progresses.

Pumping For Speed and Control

How to jump a mountain bike

Steep Terrain

Handling rock gardens

Switchbacks

Drop-offs

More information available here

Trail difficulty rating icons:

General Trail Difficulty rating icons:

Easy/Beginner

Intermediate

Advanced

Epic/Expert

Ability rating system:

While the above trail rating icons might give you a quick idea about the difficulty level of a given trail/route, we make use of a more detailed system of rating riding difficulty based on two criteria:

1) Physical fitness/endurance level (1-4)

A Basic fitness: Can ride flat or semi-flat terrain at moderate pace for 1-2 hours

B Intermediate fitness: Can ride elevated/hilly terrain at steady pace for 3+ hours. Able to ride more demanding terrain for shorter periods of time.

C Advanced fitness: Higher than average endurance level. Can ride technical/demanding terrain at faster pace for 3+ hours.

D Competition-level fitness: Excellent endurance and stamina. Can ride at demanding pace for 4+ hours.

2) Riding skill level (A-D)

1 No prior mountain biking experience but able to ride a bike comfortable. Can cycle on smooth/flat light sand/gravel trails

2 Can ride moderately technical terrain, such as short climbs and gentle descents. Has good bike control on loose terrain.

3 Good riding skills. Able to ride comfortably on any terrain, including long steep climbs and fast descents, rock gardens, etc.

4 Advanced riding skills: Expert bike handling and maneuvering skills. Able to comfortable ride very technical sections such as drop-offs, sharp switchbacks, very steep climbs and descents.

Example: A trail marked as B3 means that the ride requires an average fitness level (e.g. short ride, long elevation profile, etc) but an excellent skill level (lots of dangerous technical sections requiring superior bike control and confidence)

(Also see MTB Egypt group ride guidelines )

As with any outdoor activity, as a mountain biker you should be aware of the impact of your riding on both the surrounding environment and other users of the trail. A few key points to keep in mind are:

• Stay on the trail: Irresponsible riding and riding off-trail damages erodes the soil and damages the flora and fauna habitat and micro ecosystems that are formed and depend on this soil for survival.  For example, in the Wadi Degla area the fragile top soil that took thousands (maybe millions? I am not a geologist) of years to develop is very easily damaged by uninformed and irresponsible actions of MTBrs and off-roaders (Also, some companies abused the Wadi to obtain “cheap” raw materials for their industries. In the late 1990s, a company in the road building and maintainance business grated the topsoil on the Wadi plateaus by the truckload to use the gravel in asphalt production. I am informed that such actions are illegal now and that limestone mining is limited to areas on the edges of the Wadi. Hopefully this is true). Staying on trail requires good pre-ride planning and riding within your ability. The wadi is a desert, but it is also home to many a species of wildlife the habitat of which is severly affected by careless human intrusion.

• When riding in groups, ride inline on single tracks rather than side-by-side: Again, this will ensure tracks remain defined and limit destruction to the topsoil.

• Do not litter: This goes without saying, but just in case…the only thing you should leave nehind is your tire tracks. The wadi is plagued enough by the wind blowing trash from the adjacent dumps. If you truely care, you should write to the Egyptian Ministry of State for Environmental Affairs about the problem.

• Yield to hikers/runners: There isn’t much traffic in the wadi most of the time, but this goes for any trail: You should always yield a narrow trail to fellow “unmounted” trail users or other riders going uphill (if you’re going in the opposite direction)